Ireland and UK Day 20: More Edinburgh

Monday, July 10, 2023  I know there’s something to be said for getting an early start, but if all the things you want to go to don’t open until 10 anyway, what’s the point? That’s my thought, anyway, as I languidly sip several coffees and get lost on Instagram for a while. The apartment is …

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Ireland and UK Day 19: Exploring Edinburgh 

Sunday, July 9, 2023  We meet Hermione for breakfast at the New Town Fox, which is farther than we thought and takes a hot minute on the bus, but we get there.  Breakfast is delicious, and the place itself is great. It’s a really cute little cafe nestled into a small building in, as the …

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Ireland and UK Day 18: To Edinburgh 

Saturday, July 8, 2023  It’s really hard to leave the apartment this morning. This place has been so perfect. I could easily see moving somewhere like this. But alas, we get the time that we get, so after my chill multi-coffee start, it’s time to say goodbye to our cozy little Fort William home. We …

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Ireland and UK Day 17: The Jacobite Train and Post-WHW Reflections

Friday, July 7, 2023  In reality, the clouds that I use to justify my decision not to hike Ben Nevis today are probably very temporary, and indeed later in the day they part and reveal a perfect morning, but the fact is that when I wake up, I simply to not feel like hiking. So …

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WHW Day 6: Kinlochleven to Fort William

Ireland/UK Day 16 July 6, 2023  16 miles hiked It’s the last day of the trail, and I’m not ready for it to be. I think that’s why it takes me so long to get ready this morning, or perhaps that’s just because of how I am as a person. In any case, I enjoy …

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WHW Day 5: Bridge of Orchy to Kinlochleven

Ireland/UK Day 15 July 5, 2023  21 miles hiked  Getting ready to leave the bunkhouse is a little bit of a struggle. I knock my water bottle off the bed, wrestle with the duvet cover and fitted sheet, try and fail to remember where and how I pack things,  and eventually get myself passably together …

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WHW Day 4: Crianlarich to Bridge of Orchy

Ireland/UK Day 14 July 4, 2023 13 miles hiked The best bit about staying in a bed and breakfast is the breakfast. Ours is large, filling, and very Scottish; I think I consume an entire day’s worth of sodium in the bacon alone. There’s also homemade marmalade and preserves, which the owners make themselves. As …

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WHW Day 3: Inversnaid to Crianlarich

Ireland/UK Day 13 July 3, 2023 14 miles hiked Breakfast is yogurt and porridge in the restaurant. I stay there writing for a while (just like the PCT, it’s really hard to stay on top of this… but worth it) and finally go back to the room, pack up, and help Mom work out her …

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WHW Day 2: Balmaha to Inversnaid

Ireland/UK Day 12 July 2, 2023 15.4 miles hiked Despite feeling like absolute death last night, I feel pretty good this morning—after stretching anyway. I guess this achilles thing is just going to be for life. I need to make sure I do better with doing all of my stretches every single day, before and …

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West Highland Way Day 1: Milngavie to Balmaha

Ireland/UK Day 11 July 1, 2023 19.3 miles hiked I’m out of practice with getting ready for a long hiking day. I fumble around with the coffee maker, pack some things, forget some other things I was going to pack, have to repack, mess up the Nespresso somehow, the simplest coffee maker ever, have to …

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